Columbia
July 21, 2020
Columbia
I had never previously spent any time in Columbia, South Carolina and I found myself there on my way driving from Key West to Winston-Salem where I was to visit with my mother and sisters who were all meeting there having been summoned to deal with some health challenges she is facing. It is a long, solitary drive of around 16 hours and I was able to knock out about 12 of them the first day, stopping in Columbia and finding myself having the time and inclination to spend some time out in the world for perhaps the first time since the Covid-19 pandemic began in earnest in March.
The pandemic continues to rage virtually uncontrolled across the country, especially in the state of Florida which is currently the worldwide epicenter of cases since the state reopened around June 1st. Tourists flooded back, precautions and warnings were pretty much ignored by a large segment of the population and the easy to predict result was a huge surge of positive cases, hospitals becoming overwhelmed and sickness and death increasing.
The current confirmed case total in the United States is 3,773,260 with 140,534 deaths from the virus. At home in the Florida Keys the numbers have continued to rise unabated as we now have 894 cases in Monroe County with 373 in Key West and 6 deaths. The hospitals in the Keys are at capacity with currently there being a single bed available between the three hospitals. We have reached a crisis point and unfortunately it was in the middle of this that I found it necessary to drive through the state and head north.
I found driving pretty easy, I was able to control my environment and kept a supply of N95 masks, gloves and hand sanitizer at the ready and stopped only minimally to get gas until I reached Columbia. One there I had some time on my hands and decided to utilize it and following all required guidelines, get out and explore the city a little. I visited places that were suggested on trip advisor like the world’s largest fireplug and a cool infinity mural in downtown Columbia.
I also toured the abandoned campus of the University of South Carolina and nearby Five Points which is a hub of mostly closed stores, restaurants and bars. It was a little surreal as there was hardly anyone around downtown, certainly no other tourists but I sort of enjoyed checking the places out without anyone around. I was happy not to come into contact with virtually any other people and was able to order take out from a local bbq establishment.
In the afternoon I visited a place that I was somewhat apprehensive about going to see, the South Carolina Confederate Relic Room and Military Museum. There has been all sorts of news of late concerning the Confederate Flag and on monuments that glorify the Confederacy. I strongly support the movement to remove monuments that celebrate what is basically a failed, racist revolt. I was thrilled when NASCAR banned the display of the flag and when Mississippi finally recently retired their state flag which incorporated the offensive symbol.
Those that cry about losing their heritage and history seem misguided at best. I think monuments to the Confederate States should be limited to Civil War Battlefields and Museums where the actual history can be explained and the truth behind what those symbols mean can be taught. I have always been something of a Civil War buff, and despite the somewhat inappropriate name, wanted to see the Relic Room and see what was displayed.
Original flag of the Confederacy
I was pleasantly surprised, as I thought the museum would be much less balanced than it actually was based upon the name and location. Again I was the only visitor during the time I was there, but they were good about Covid protocol and the museum was actually fascinating. They had a large trove of relics and artifacts from the war and it was presented in an honest and straightforward way, seemingly taking pains to not just focus on the Southern perspective.
There were of course lots of examples of the many various Confederate Flags and of different regiments, focusing on those from South Carolina, but there were as many from Northern units as well and both sides were well represented. They had items from the only all black regiment that fought for the South, which I never knew much about as well as items from the famous 54th Massachusetts all black regiment that fought for the North and was immortalized in the film “Glory”.
The coolest and probably rarest item on hand was literally the tattered remains of a flag that Harriet Tubman carried into battle during the war as she lead a group of fighters into battle. It is the only surviving example of that flag and it was so awesome to see such a piece of history. The museum also featured displays of local participation in other military conflicts from WWI to Vietnam.
Harriet Tubman flag
That evening I had made the short drive from Columbia to Winston-Salem to see my mother Marta and my sister Michele who drove in the same day from Indianapolis as well as my sister Marika and her husband Brian who are based in North Carolina and who have been assuming the lion’s share of responsibility for her care. It was really great to see them all, though also tough to see Marta not at exactly 100 percent.
Marta
https://www.crr.sc.gov/
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